Tent Camping on the Oregon Coast #4

ASTORIA
I was having pretty good luck with the campground showers. The water temperature was just at body heat – just barely enough to be able to somewhat enjoy it. I guess if it were kept any warmer, folks would never get out! But it was tricky to find a shower where the water would stay on more than 15 seconds. I got to where before I even got undressed, I’d punch the button to test the temperature of the water, and to see how long the water would stay on – 30 seconds was the best.

Poor Dale did not have very good luck at all with the showers. The first time he tried them, the water was not only cold, but if he let up on the button, the water turned off. He must have done quite a dance – juggling soap, cold water, and keeping his thumb on the button.

Again we listened to the rain beat a steady rhythm on the tent throughout the night, and we awakened to a light drizzle of rain, mist, and a light fog. And again I heated a pot of water then dove back into the tent for oatmeal, hot chocolate, and morning pills.

For our lunches we were quite lucky – finding a table under thick pines out of the rain. We ate bagels and cream cheese, or crackers and cheese. with a fruit cup. At least we weren’t gaining weight on this trip!

After we had dumped our breakfast dishes in the garbage bag, we headed out for Astoria. Our goal was to find the Astoria Column which was supposed to be at the top of a 600 foot high hill overlooking the Columbia River. In the fog we couldn’t even see a hill! Eventually we found small signs that directed us to the eastern side of the town and we started up streets much like San Francisco’s, straight up past a college, straight up past fancy beautiful homes, and finally onto the very top of the hill; and there, in the fog and mist was the Astoria Column! Had we been younger, we might have taken the 165 steps inside the column to the lookout platform on the top. But then what could we have seen? Fog! The column was built in 1926 and is 125 feet high. A spiraling mural is painted around the column depicting 14 events in Oregon’s history – like the discovery of the Columbia River, Lewis & Clark, and the pioneers. And not being able to take in the famous view of anything, we returned at a 45 degree angle back to sea level. Lagoon couldn’t have wreaked more havoc on my stomach.

We spent a couple of hours at the Columbia River Maritime Museum and were completely fascinated by the tales of old shipwrecks, of the harrowing “Crossing the Bar,” and tales of the “Graveyard of the Pacific.” These were familiar terms to me, yet I had never realized that these things happened right there, where the Columbia River dumps into the Pacific and creates great chaos in the water. That coupled with the fog, and the weather, over 2000 ships have wrecked near the mouth of the Columbia River.

I was in awe of the bar pilots who must board the big ships to guide them into the mouth of the Columbia River. They go out on small boats to meet the big ship, they have to time the waves just right to jump up and grab a ladder on the side of the ship and haul themselves up to the deck where they take over the navigation of the ship across the chaotic bar. Those guys (& ladies too, actually) get paid $180,000 a year – it probably all goes for life insurance.

And the Coast Guard – the guys who patrol that area -- almost daily helping boats in distress . And they get paid diddly-squat, and probably don’t even have dental insurance.

In the late afternoon the rain let up to a light drizzle and we went to Fort Clatsup to see the area where Lewis and Clark’s expedition built a fort and spent the winter. Here I met my heroine Sacajawea and we exchanged kindly words. Dale went back to the car to rest for a minute, leaving me alone to explore trails through the deeply forested camp. I can tell you – if a person were to get lost in those forests, they’d never find their way out, nor would anyone find them! I kept remembering the slogan “Hug a Tree.” I really didn’t have a full understanding of that concept until I walked through those forests. Being acquainted with only the forests of Arizona, Utah, Idaho, and Yellowstone, I thought I understood. But in those forests, there really is no undergrowth in comparison with those I walked through at Fort Clatsop. And the trees and not nearly so thick, and not nearly so tall – and the forest not nearly so deep and dark. Lions, and tigers, and bears! Oh My! I didn’t go far – about 200 feet – then I was backtracking -- as well as watching my back -- and I caught up with Dale before he even reached the car!!

That evening we went out to dinner! The ladies at the museum had told us about a pub, the Ship Inn, that was an excellent place to have seafood. So we went! It was right on the boardwalk by the Columbia River and we had a table right by the windows overlooking the water. The fish dinner (halibut for me, a combination for Dale) was the best I’ve had in years and years!! Or perhaps it was so wonderful because of all the oatmeal, bagels, and Progresso soup we had been subsisting on.

Then back to the tent, cool showers, and listening to the drumming of the rain throughout the night.